The Lengthy Crossing of Norway’s Lofoten Islands

Simply off the coast of northern Norway within the Arctic Circle lies a legendary archipelago by the identify of Lofoten. A mixture of deep fjords, windswept seashores, jagged peaks and picture-postcard villages, its staggering magnificence has lengthy been celebrated in artwork and literature, and in more moderen instances, seemingly each second panorama photographer’s Instagram account. Whereas its unparalleled magnificence is under no circumstances a secret, there may be nonetheless a method to escape many of the crowds and expertise the Lofoten’s wonders in comparative solitude. It’s referred to as the Lengthy Crossing – a 160 km (99 mi) mountaineering route by way of the spectacular coronary heart of the island chain. 

Greg “Malto” Gressel and I hiked all the Lengthy Crossing (plus facet journeys) over seven days in late September 2018. Click on right here for an in depth gear checklist from the journey.

Yours actually descending from Dalstuva Peak on Stage 5 of the Lengthy Crossing.

At a Look

Origins – The thought for the “Lengthy Crossing” is from the workforce at Rando-Lofoten. This glorious web site is a goldmine for all issues mountaineering within the archipelago.

Distance (11 Levels):  160 km (99.4 mi) –  Our seven-day journey ended up being roughly 190 – 200 km (118 – 124 mi), as we additionally included facet journeys, some connector highway walks, and most notably an overland hyperlink between levels 9 and 10 (see Alternates for particulars)

Common Length:  11 days. 

Problem Degree:  Reasonable to troublesome

Begin / End:

• Village of Å (south)
• Delp (north)

Overview map of The Lengthy Crossing (Rando-Lofoten)

Which Path?:  I don’t assume it makes a lot of a distinction. The Rando-Lofoten website describes the hike from north to south, nevertheless, we selected to go the opposite course. Why? Just because it labored out higher for us with the ferry schedule from Bodø (See Getting There & Away).

Complete Elevation Acquire: 9,193 m (30,161 ft)

Highest Level: 1,029 m (3,376 ft) – The summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak – a not-to-be-missed facet journey from the primary route throughout stage 10.

Lowest Level: Sea degree.

Highest level – Gazing northeast from the summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak

The stunningly located Horseid Seaside; a properly worthwhile facet journey throughout Stage 9.

Getting There & Away:

• Accessing the Lofoten Islands: The principal gateway to the Lofotens is the city of Bodø, which is serviced by each day flights from Oslo. From Bodø you may catch one of many common ferries to both Svolvaer (closest city to the northern terminus) or Moskenes harbour (closest entry level to the southern terminus). See torghatten-nord.no for ferry data.

• Village of Å (southern terminus): From Moskenes harbour its a mild 5km (3.1 mi) highway stroll alongside the E10 to/from the southern terminus in Å. Alternatively, you may take bus #18-742. See reisnordland.no for bus data. 

•  Delp: In accordance with Rando-Lofoten web site: “Take line 18-749 from Svolvær in course of Liland, cease at Jordness Kryss (20 min). Wait there and take the bus 18-733 in course of Laukvik, then cease at Straumsnes Vest. Stroll till the beginning (or end) of the hike.” For bus instances, see reisnordland.no.

• For an informative overview of transport choices for the Lofoten Islands, take a look at the superb 68north.com.
  

  Wanting eastward over Agvatnet in the direction of the Village of Å / Stage 11.

Season:

• Mid-June to late September. 

• Malto and I selected to do the hike in late September/early October. This meant shorter days and an elevated probability of precipitation, nevertheless, we determined it was value it for the opportunity of seeing the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). It turned out we had been fortunate on each counts. We had nice climate for roughly six out of the seven days, and had been handled to Mom Nature’s mesmerizing mild present through the ultimate couple of nights of the journey. 

MLD Duomid and an emerald inexperienced night time sky / Ultimate night time of the Lengthy Crossing.

Planning Info 

• GPS Information: GPS data for all 11 levels will be discovered on the Rando-Lofoten web site. We printed out maps for the route, along with having the GPX monitor on our telephones (Gaia GPS app). Be aware: See the Route / Circumstances part beneath for data on our overland hyperlink between Levels 9 and 10

• Overview Map: Other than the stage maps talked about above, we additionally carried a 1:100,000 overview map (#2549) of the Lofotens from Turkart. This in style sheet is broadly obtainable in bookshops, out of doors shops and vacationer workplaces in Bodø and the Lofoten Islands.

• Guidebooks : We made do with the aforementioned objects together with some primary planning data listed on the Rando-Lofoten website. For people in search of one thing extra, Rando-Lofoten have put out a paperback guidebook – Mountaineering within the Lofoten Islands – which incorporates detailed trekking notes for the route, along with beta on greater than 60 day hikes all through the archipelago.

• Extra Basic Info: I had a Kindle model of Lonely Planet’s newest Norway journey guidebook on my cellphone.

• On-line Beta: Other than Rando-Lofoten, the most effective sources for exploring the archipelago on foot is Cody Duncan’s superb web site, 68north.com. Other than helpful logistical data, Duncan’s pictures are among the many greatest I’ve seen from the storied archipelago. They’re so good in truth, that a few of them are featured within the second of my Wanderlust books, The Hidden Tracks!

Dawn from Hermannsdalstinden Peak.

• Permits: No permits are required to hike within the Lofoten Islands.

• Language:  Norwegian. With the doable exception of parents which can be over 60, just about everybody you meet within the islands speaks English. That stated, as an indication of respect on your hosts I extremely advocate studying some primary pleasantries within the native tongue.

• Cell/Cell Protection: There may be protection in the entire villages, and many of the route’s excessive factors.

• Lengthy Crossing Planning Abstract: I’d advocate the next course: 1. Learn by way of this text; 2. Obtain the GPS data from Rando-Lofoten; 3. Contemplate choosing up their guidebook; 4. Try Coby Duncan’s web site for visible inspiration, and; 5. Upon arrival in Bodo, buy the 1:100,000 overview map listed above (or order on-line earlier than you go).

• Gear Listing: Click on right here for an in depth gear checklist from the journey.

Heading north in the direction of the sleepy village of Napp on the sixth stage.

Resupply & Water:

• Resupply:  You gained’t go hungry on the Lengthy Crossing. We by no means needed to carry greater than a day or two’s meals at anyone time. See the stage summaries on the Rando-Lofoten web site (or guidebook) for resupply particulars. Throughout our seven day hike we picked up meals on the following places: Stage 2 – Sandsletta Tenting (restaurant / store); Stage 5 – Leknes (city); Stage 6 – Nusfjord village; Stage 7 – Ramberg village; Stage 9 – Vindstad (common ferry service to scenic village of Reine, which has a number of meals and lodging choices); Stage 11 – Village of Å.

• Water:  Ample. We by no means needed to carry a couple of or two liters at anyone time. On the purification entrance, neither of us handled water through the hike, nor did we expertise any intestinal points.

Malto descending in the direction of Forsfjord throughout Stage 10.

Morning ferry again to Vindstad, after an sudden facet journey to the picturesque village of Reine.

Route Notes:

Overview:

The Lengthy Crossing of the Lofotens is certainly one of Europe’s most spectacular trails – a mixture of yawning fjords, hidden coves, serrated peaks and vibrant fishing villages. Though for essentially the most half unmarked, in clear climate the route isn’t troublesome to observe as there are many distinctive pure options that act as reference factors for orientation. It may be a special story when its wet and foggy, so you’ll want to preserve monitor of your location always. Terrain-wise the going is commonly steep, muddy and uncovered, however the otherworldly vistas present greater than ample compensation on your efforts.   

How Lengthy will it take?:

Within the “At a Look” part above, I point out that the typical Lengthy Crossing hiker will take 11 days to finish the route. That is the time advised on the Rando-Lofoten web site, and I believe it’s kind of on the cash for most people. Nevertheless, as is the case with nearly all multi-day treks, the period of time wanted to finish the Lengthy Crossing can differ drastically relying on numerous elements. Match and skilled hikers which can be carrying a light-weight pack and who’ve an honest run with the climate, can comfortably do the the route in seven to 9 days with loads of time leftover for facet journeys.

Malto striding out at nightfall through the fifth stage. Be aware the MLD Burn backpack and orange Patagonia Houdini windshirt – he has used each objects on each hike now we have accomplished collectively over the previous eight years!

Highlights:

My favorite levels on the AV1 had been as follows:

• • Stage 1 –  Delp to Sandsletta – That includes a spectacular and really uncovered ridge stroll north of Matmora Peak.
  • Stage 9 – Selfjord Bay to Forsfjorden Fjord – Together with the facet journey to Horseid Seaside. Make sure you go for a dip within the Arctic waters!
  • Stage 10 – Forsfjorden to the village of Å – That includes a facet journey to the summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak, which affords arguably the best 360° panorama in all the archipelago.
  • Stage 11 – Out and again throughout the island from the Village of Å, through Agvatnet and Stokkvikvatnet lakes.

Extra views from Hermannsdalstinden Peak.

Malto descending alongside the north ridge of Matmora Peak earlier than the end in Delp.

Taking within the views from Matmora ridge.

Lowlights: 

Out of geographic necessity, there may be some roadwalking concerned on just a few of the levels. It’s doable to hitch or take buses throughout these sections (see Rando-Lofoten stage descriptions for particulars), nevertheless, we determined to hike them except for the phase between Napp and Leknes (which features a non-pedestrian tunnel that goes underneath the ocean). Though strolling on pavement isn’t preferrred, we didn’t encounter an excessive amount of in the best way of site visitors, and there was usually a fairly vast shoulder in order that it by no means felt harmful.

Alternates

Other than worthy facet journeys to Hermannsdalstinden Peak, Helvetestinden Peak and Horseid Seaside, there have been two principal factors at which we diverged from the usual Lengthy Crossing route: 

Stage 2 & 3 – Olderfjorden 

The route described on Rando-Lofoten swings south towards the city of Svolvaer. As we had been already carrying ample provides, we determined to take the trail much less travelled from the junction on the finish of Olderfjorden (68°15.7872’N, 14°23.2307’E). From this level we continued ENE up the valley. The path was boggy, soggy, overgrown and disappeared and reappeared with regularity. All that stated, the surroundings was spectacular and it proved to be an enjoyably difficult part. We linked again as much as the usual route at Bothnvatnet lake (68°17.2426’N,  14°30.2077’E).

Stage 2 & 3 Alternate – Ascending from Olderfjorden on the sixth and penultimate day, we skilled our first sustained interval of inclement climate through the hike.

Overland Hyperlink between Levels 9 and 10: 

The parents at Rando-Lofoten counsel you are taking the ferry between Kjerkfjorden and Forsfjorden. This is because of a steep, and doubtlessly harmful stretch situated between Vindstad and Kjerkfjord. Though I utterly perceive their omission, each Malto and I are very skilled in technical terrain, so we determined to analyze the part for ourselves.

The particular phase the Rando-Lofoten workforce are referring to begins on the saddle SE of Helvetestinden Peak (a must-do facet journey). It’s undeniably precipitous in components and in moist climate could possibly be extraordinarily slippery. Nevertheless, if you’re sure-footed, have a very good head for heights and are carrying a light-weight load, I believe it’s throughout the capabilities of most robust and seasoned backpackers. Mountaineering from Vindstad to Kjerkfjord, you’ll start dropping from the saddle at 67°58.6197’N, 12°59.7817’E, and descend in a NE course, ultimately reaching flat floor at round 67°58.8192’N, 13°0.2269’E.  For a lot of the best way down there’s a faint path that’s sporadically cairned.

Though I personally didn’t discover this part to be overly troublesome, Rando-Lofoten don’t advocate it for a motive. The sheer and rugged nature of the terrain signifies that it’s appropriate just for seasoned hikers in nice climate. Earlier than deciding to present it a attempt, take into account whether or not or not you could have the requisite expertise. If you happen to aren’t certain, take the ferry.

Be aware that the second a part of the connector part linking levels 9 and 10 is a totally totally different story. Stretching between Vindstad and the facility station at Forsfjorden, this phase consists of a simple to observe, undulating path which skirts the jap facet of the fjord. It’s appropriate for hikers of all ranges of expertise.

In the course of the connector part between levels 9 and 10, I took a properly worthwhile facet journey to the summit of Helvetestinden Peak.

Pre-descent views over Kjerkfjord from the saddle SE of Helvetestinden Peak.

Wanting again towards the saddle after descending a grassy chute.

The village of Kjerkfjorden.

Sleeping

Wild tenting is feasible all through the Lengthy Crossing. Throughout our week lengthy journey, we camped out each night time besides one; an unplanned facet journey to the picturesque village of Reine. To get there, we took one of many twice each day ferries from Vindstad. For lodging choices in villages alongside the best way, see the Rando-Lofoten web site or take a look at up-to-date choices on Reserving.com. 

MLD Duomid at sundown on Day 3.

Ultimate Musings from the Lengthy Crossing

Solitude within the Lofotens

By any standards the Lofoten Islands is likely one of the most terribly lovely locations on the planet. It’s due to this fact no shock that lately its recognition has began to increase. However as is the case with different well-known pure wonders such because the Grand Canyon and Yosemite Nationwide Park, backpacking provides a method to escape the crowds and luxuriate in a excessive diploma of solitude. In the course of the Lengthy Crossing there have been instances after we noticed different vacationers – Bunes seashore, the Village of Å and Munken come to thoughts – nevertheless, for essentially the most half we had the path to ourselves. And that in a nutshell seashell is likely one of the issues that I’ve all the time liked about mountaineering – with just a little additional effort it’s doable to extricate your self from the overwhelmed monitor, and discover quiet and peaceable moments even in a few of the earth’s hottest wilderness corners.

Norway’s Cod Capital

All through the Lengthy Crossing you will notice cod drying racks in many of the villages. A few years earlier than it turned a mecca for nature loving vacationers, the Lofoten Islands performed an vital position in Norway’s fishing business. For greater than a millennium it has been the centre of nation’s profitable cod fisheries. A task that’s of specific significance through the colder months, when cod migrate south from the Barents sea and are available to the hotter waters of the Lofotens with a view to spawn.

A Thermal Anomaly

Due to the above-mentioned heat currents of the Gulf Stream, the Lofoten Islands experiences a comparatively delicate oceanic local weather. Regardless of it mendacity at the same latitude to locations corresponding to Alaska and Greenland, common winter and summer season temperatures within the archipelago are a relatively balmy 1°C (33.8°F) and 13°C (55.4°F) respectively.

Publish-hike Aspect Journey – The Mosktraumen  

Situated simply off the Lofoten archipelago is a singular system of tidal eddies and whirlpools referred to as the Moskstraumen (or maelstrom). Over the centuries this hydrological phenomena has been featured in varied traditional literary tales together with Jules Verne’s, “Twenty Thousand Leagues Beneath the Sea” and Edgar Allen Poe’s brief story, “A Descent into the Maelstrom.” What units the legendary Moskstraumen aside from most different whirlpools is its energy – it’s the second strongest of its sort on the planet – plus the truth that it happens in open sea, fairly than in a river or strait.

Malto 

I’ll end this submit with a shout-out to my good buddy and mountaineering accomplice on the Lengthy Crossing, Greg “Malto” Gressel. Since assembly on the Appalachian Path in November, 2012, Malto and I’ve accomplished a bunch of various mountaineering journeys collectively together with the Lowest to Highest Route, Wonderland Path, Northville Placid Path and the Wind River Excessive Route. Most of those journeys had been accomplished outdoors of normal mountaineering season home windows, and as a consequence we’ve sometimes encountered some pretty difficult climate (see pictures beneath). Regardless of the meteorological obstacles and a gag-worthy path weight-reduction plan of spam and maltodextrin, Malto has all the time remained singularly upbeat and infrequently appears to put on down regardless of the situations. It’s particularly spectacular when you think about he simply celebrated his eighty fifth birthday. Thanks for one more nice hike, mate!

Malto wading by way of the appropriately named “Duck Gap” through the mom of all storms | Northville Placid Path, Adirondacks, New York, 2015.

Malto descending to Little Sandy Creek throughout a giant snow storm in Wyoming’s Wind River Vary (2016).

Malto and I on the summit of Matmora, the ultimate peak of our Lengthy Crossing of the Lofoten Islands.

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